An Intimate Chef’s Counter Experience Immerses Diners in Wonder, Whimsy & True Art at One by Spork

One by Spork is a grand and winding, multi-hour culinary adventure — a bit of theatrics mixed with captivating flair, rotating props and a whole lot of talent on display behind the (open) kitchen and bar. A brand-new experience led by James Beard Award-nominated Chef Christian Frangiadis, this next iteration of Pittsburgh’s acclaimed Spork restaurant features an ever-evolving tasting menu with complementary drink pairings curated by Beverage Director Cecil Usher (he pours N/A options, too).

We were recently lucky to cozy up amongst other foodies (from our city and beyond) around the venue’s circular, 16-seat chef tasting counter. In a striking space where the neighborhoods of Garfield, Friendship and Bloomfield converge, we sat beneath the warm glow of the Melt Burst chandelier-meets-sculpture by Tom Dixon.

Credit |
Laura Petrilla

The restaurant’s design is modern yet inviting; the meal begins and ends in the lounge area, with the rest of the feast savored at a communal counter. As we dove into the first of many tableside courses, we received a heartfelt welcome and the gentle instruction to enjoy this menu-free experience, done by design so that we had no decisions to make throughout the evening. (That said, the staff was incredibly accommodating with dietary restrictions.)

Credit |
Laura Petrilla
Credit |
Laura Petrilla

The evening’s rocking playlist perfectly aligned with each course — Lauryn Hill crooning as our Vapocot blood orange sangrias got concocted at center stage, reggae rocking as we were served our individually-prepared servings of rye noodle seafood ramen. We later learned that Chef Frangiadis built the playlist himself, relying on his former DJing roots from time spent in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

Credit |
Laura Petrilla
Credit |
Laura Petrilla

One by Spork’s culinary offerings are said to be anchored in “classic technique and hyper-scratch methods — from milling grains, to grinding cocoa nibs for bean-to-bar chocolate, to fermenting dozens of misos, garum and amazake.” Many ingredients used in their artful dishes come directly from the restaurant’s on-site garden bounty, including 50-plus types of vegetables, fruits and herbs. They claim to have the most robust fermentation program in the city, featuring dozens of varieties of housemade misos, amazake, garum, vinegars, black fruit and fermented alliums produced to infuse umami into every step of both the food and cocktail programs. The restaurant’s “culinary lab” also stocks modernist tools that allow the team to experiment and flex creative muscles with methods like dry-aging, dehydration, evaporation and more.

New additions get introduced here almost weekly, with dishes rotating through based on the seasons and the creative flow of Chef and his team. A mere sampling of our evening highlights included: lamb tartare, charred octopus (seared a la plancha, blood orange ginger glaze, chorizo hash, potato espuma, beet tuile), dry-aged fresh duck (with dauphine potato, peach squash-miso reduction, roasted carrot) and Australian A5 Wagyu. Beverage standouts ranged from Graham Beck NV Brut Rose and a glass of Hartford Court ‘Lands Edge Vineyards Pinot Noir 2022, to a refreshing Furikake Sour (St George green chili vodka, Empirical Ayuuk, Yuki Otoko Cloudy Sake, furikake syrup and acid, ginger bitters).

Credit |
Laura Petrilla
Credit |
Laura Petrilla

And while this lengthy meal was no doubt a grand, impressive affair, it’s important to note that the experience comes served alongside a healthy dose of warmth and realness that Pittsburgh does so well. The restaurant team says it best: “Fine dining, but make it fun.”

One by Spork offers one seating per night at 6:15 p.m., Thursday through Sunday, with reservations required. The experience costs $275 per person, inclusive of beverage pairings (exclusive of tax and gratuity). Visit onebyspork.com, or call 412.441.1700 to book some magic for yourself.

Corinne W

Author

Corinne W

Freelance Writer & Editor

Corinne is happy to be back closer to home (D.C.) after 11 years in the glorious Pacific Northwest. Though she cherishes global adventures, she also lives for discovering local gems, from the best spots for coffee, conversation and soul-nourishing music, to water activities and trails on which to walk a loveable little husky. You can follow her on Instagram at @travelcorx

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