Brick Ovens: Bringing Italy to Pittsburgh

by Marlene Parrish

In America, where pizza is in popular demand, fans of true Neapolitan pizza—the kind made in a wood-fired brick oven, know the real thing is almost impossible to find. Except in Pittsburgh.

It's the brick ovens and the pizzas they bake which makes them so unique. There is no spinning in Naples. The Italian flour makes dough that is soft and light, and would tear from the stress of spinning. The toppings are simple: crushed tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, fresh oregano, basil, and buffalo mozzarella cheese.

The pizzas only bake for 45-60 seconds at a temperature of 1,000 degrees, and that's it. The result is simple, light with robust, uncomplicated flavors. The cheese melts, the tomatoes lightly charred, and the thin crust is perfect brown. Want to eat pizza like Neapolitan? Here are some of our favorites:

• Piccolo Forno

  Dominic Branduzzi
  412.622.0111
  3801 Butler St.
  Lawrenceville

• Il Pizzaiolo

  Ron Molinaro
  412.344.4123
  703 Washington Rd.
  Mt. Lebanon

• Bado's Cucina

  Sam Badolato
  724.942.3904
  3825 Washington Rd.
  Peters Township

• Enrico Biscotti

  Larry Lagattuta
  412.281.2602
  2022 Penn Ave.
  Strip District

Margherita Pizza Topping

This recipe makes enough for two 12-inch pizzas. Buy the dough or make your own. It isn’t Naples, but it comes close.

• 1 cup canned crushed Italian tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
• 1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
• Coarse salt
• 1/2 pound fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced
• 12 small fresh basil leaves, or large ones torn into pieces
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil plus more, if desired

Directions:

Place a pizza stone in the oven and preheat the oven to its highest setting, around 500 degrees F. Roll or stretch the pizza dough into two 12-inch rounds. Spread each with half the crushed tomatoes and scatter on the cherry tomato halves. Sprinkle with coarse salt. Scatter over the cheese and sprinkle with the basil leaves. Drizzle each pizza with olive oil.

Transfer one pizza to the hot pizza stone or onto a baking tray. Bake until the crust is brown and somewhat crisp on the bottom, about 10 minutes. Since ovens vary, keep watch carefully during the baking time. Remove the first pizza and bake the second one in the same manner.

Drizzle a bit of extra olive oil over each, if desired, and serve.

Makes two 12-inch pizzas.