Love of PA: Lawrence County

"Eggs inside. Help yourself"

At least that's what the sign says. The handwritten note is tacked up beside the back door of the farmhouse. There is not a soul in sight, and as odd as it feels, I open the door to the stranger's house and pick up a recycled cardboard egg carton. $1.75 a dozen - now that's a bargain. I leave my money in the little box provided and am on my way.

This egg experience is very similar to what shopping is like in Amish country. An estimated 1,500 Old Order Amish people live in Lawrence County, most near the small towns of New Wilmington and Volant. However, unlike Lancaster County, the Amish in Lawrence County blend into everyday life. They're conspicuous by their clothing of blue shirts and straw hats on the men, and long dresses and caps for the women. But, here you won't find any tour companies or trinket shops, and nobody stares at a black-cloaked Amish girl on the street, or at their horse-drawn buggies.

As far as your travels are concern, my advice is to explore all the side roads, and be on the look out for signs offering produce, quilts, rugs or furniture for sale. The Amish farmhouses offer a variety as well, at one house I bought homemade pasta, at another, I was offered to buy a cockatiel.

It's all In Her Head

The Dumplin Haus

1225 Main Street
Volant, PA
724.533.3732

The Dumplin Haus seats 27, the décor consists of beaded lampshades, flowered tablecloths, large paintings, a baby doll in a high chair, and a large wagon wheel draped with artificial flowers which is illuminated by Christmas lights. The restaurant is among 30 shops that line the steep main street of Volant.

"All the recipes are here," says Linda Brua, tapping her right temple as she takes a seat in her tiny restaurant.

Rolls, stuffed pork chops, stuffed chicken breast, tomato dumpling soup, chicken salad sandwiches, roast beef, apple dumplings, cinnamon rolls, and poppyseed bread—everything, of course, is homemade. But, don't forget to save room for dessert. More than a dozen kinds of pie - all made from scratch, all on the premises.

"My mother was a good cook. She had four sisters, and they were all good cooks." Brua says, as she learned to cook by watching and helping them. She and her husband, Thomas, bought The Dumplin Haus 10 years ago.

A Never-Ending Fountain

Daley's Country Pantry

Route 956 or in New Wilmington
724-946-9023

When traveling to Lawrence County, you must remember to bring empty water jugs.

"People have been getting their water here for generations", says John Daley, owner of Daley's Country Pantry. On a warm summer day, there's nothing better than a cold glass of water, or in this case, a jug. Between all the shopping and eating, make sure to make a stop at Daley's Country Pantry. Located on Route 956, the stone pillar with a tap gushing cold, pure spring water will be sure to catch your eye. It comes from an unquenchable aquifer 92 feet deep in the Earth, and is free for the taking. Throughout the year, Daley tests the water and posts the report near the tap.

His main business is selling bulk foods—flour, sugar, spices, dried fruit, pasta and cocoa, but, he also makes a unique product. Daley is the go-to guy for one-of-a-kind cookie cutters, in any shape you want: a dragon, teapot, airplane, cat, dog or guitar. You name it, and he'll make it for you on the spot!

What's For Dinner?

Garrett Meats

134 Short Street
New Wilmington, PA
724.946.2641

Garrett Meats is definitely no place for the squeamish, but, if you buy your meat here, you'll know where it came from.

"There are four or five farmers I buy from, and I know what they're feeding their livestock" Bret Garrett says. His approach? "Commonsense stuff" - keep the animals on a healthy and natural diet, but don't deny a sick cow an antibiotic.

The market, on a quiet side street in New Wilmington, has been around since 1947, and back then it was also used for freezer storage, as most people didn't have home freezers. These days, Garrett sells hamburger, steak, bacon, ham, lard, soup bones, beef sticks and the like. You can find some items in the cases out front, but, for the most part it's custom-cutting.

If You're Going

A number of Amish farms are located west of Route 18 on Poverty Point, Heather Heights and Cranberry Roads. Remember, there are no Sunday sales.

Stroll around New Wilmington, a small town with big old houses and tall shade trees. It's the home of Westminster College, a private liberal arts school with 1,450 students on a pretty campus.

Other Places

• New Wilmington Produce Auction

  3238 Route 208
  New Wilmington, PA
  724.946.2034
  http://www.nwproduce.com/

  On weekdays, the New Wilmington Produce Auction sells local fruit, vegetables, plants and flowers at auction to grocery stores, roadside stands and individuals. Check the schedule before you go.

• Dutch Isle

  3664 Route 208
  east of New Wilmington
  724.946.8807

  Choose among 40 flavors of ice cream made at the Dutch Isle ice cream stand.

• Volant Mill Winery

  1229 Main Street
  Volant, PA
  724.533.2500
  http://www.volantmillwinery.com/

  Volant Mill Winery offers some 20 varieties of white, red, blush and fruit wine.

• The Kitchen Shoppe

  625 Main Street
  Volant, PA
  1.800.435.0015

  The Kitchen Shoppe carries All-Clad and other cookware, table linens, cookbooks, gadgets and the like.

• T-N-T Grill

  724.533.2022.

  For fresh pies, excellent soup and more, try T-N-T Grill, tucked away on a boardwalk off Main Street in Volant.

• Gilliland's Market

  109 South Market Street
  New Wilmington, PA
  724.946.3508

  Gilliland's Market, the quintessential small-town grocery store, makes and sells its own bacon, soup and chili sauce. Pick up a frozen Augustine's pizza or a loaf of DeRosa bread here if you missed your chance in New Castle.

• Cheese House

  3356 Route 208
  New Wilmington, PA
  724.946.8558

  The cavernous Cheese House sells mozzarella and provolone that it makes at the factory next door, along with specialty foods and souvenirs.

• Apple Castle Orchard and Farm Market

  277 Route 18
  New Wilmington, PA
  724.652.3221
  http://www.applecastle.com/

  It's not just apples. The Apple Castle Orchard and Farm Market sells fruit, vegetables, jam and its own cider and donuts.

• Jacqueline House

  3213 Route 956
  New Castle, PA
  724.946.8382
  http://www.jacquelinehouse.com/

  Jacqueline House calls itself a "rural spa retreat." There are four bedrooms, an airy breakfast room, a small swimming pool and loads of bright flowers.

• Candleford Inn

  225 Mercer Street
  Volant, PA
  724.533.4497
  http://www.candlefordinn.com/

  Actor Martin Sheen once stayed at the Candleford Inn Bed and Breakfast, a renovated, century-old home with a big front porch in the heart of Volant.

For More Information

Volant Merchants Association

724.533.5054
http://www.volantshops.com/

Lawrence County Tourist Promotion Agency

29 S. Jefferson Street
New Castle, PA
1.888.284.7599
http://www.visitlawrencecounty.com/